picture of Dot's feet

Diary

Introduction

Week 1

Week 2

Week 3

Week 4

Week 5

Map week 4

 



345 mile walk - Week 4

Day twenty-one: It was very hot today: somewhere in the thirties. Did absolutely nothing all day except telephone Dave’s dad, Dot’s parents, and our two daughters. It was a wonderful “chill out” day. We studied the maps for the next day. Foot report: Dot’s blisters are on the mend and Dave’s leg is swollen but not too uncomfortable.

Day twenty-two and we started our journey along the Loire. We woke at 4.30 a.m. to the sound of thunder and flashes of lightening so we decided to get up straight away and pack up before it started to rain. We had just walk_045finished when the heavens opened so we took shelter by the shower block until the rain stopped. We crossed the suspension bridge across the Loire just as the sun was rising; a beautiful scene. After walking about eight kilometres it began to rain so up went the umbrellas. We sheltered under a tree for a while then carried on until we came to St Florent-le-Viell. There was a campsite there but we decided to walk on as it was not a municipal site and would have been expensive; besides, it was only mid-morning. We followed the cycle track for a while before resting for a two-hour lunch on the edge of a cornfield by a long row of tall trees. We walked on and stopped to fill our water bottles at a shady picnic spot where we took another break. It was very hot and we were tempted to stop walking and camp overnight. Rashly we decide to walk on to the campsite at Montjean-sur-Loire. The first things we asked for were two cold beers, and very welcome they were too. The campsite is very good, we had a friendly reception and they lent us a table and two chairs too. The cost was 11€ 40.

Day twenty-three and our day started with a very pleasant walk through the town of Montjean-sur-Loire. Pretty gardens and sculptures stay in our memory. The town was dotted with sculptures large and small: a group of large ones in a field and a series of smaller ones as we walked along the river and out of town. We crossed the river onto Basse Isle, saw our first field of sunflowers, not much traffic, more pretty gardens full of roses and hollyhocks, walk_050very peaceful walking. Stopped for breakfast by an old farm. While Dave was brewing the tea we could hear a kitten mewing but couldn’t see it. The mum appeared from behind some bushes and the kitten ran out to her. The mother cat was still suckling the kitten and was very thin and obviously hungry. We had some sausage left from the day before so we cut some thin slices for her to eat. She was a bit timid at first but she came over and then the kitten followed warily. Mum ate several slices and the kitten licked Dave’s fingers. As we walked away the mother cat was washing herself and the kitten was trying to suckle. We crossed over another bridge to the other side of the Loire and had a short rest before walking on to Possoniere. It was very hot and the road seemed to go on for ever. Dave spotted a randonee footpath off to the left, which we decided to take. It took us to the town via someone’s vegetable garden (the path went straight through the middle!). Possoniere is a very long town and it took ages to get to the centre where we found a welcome bar and a cold beer each. The campsite is right by the river and we found the perfect spot right under a flowering cherry tree giving us shade all day. When we went to register the manageress told us that a heavy storm had been forecast and that a flood alert was in force and asked if we still wanted to stay. We decided that we deserved a good rest and the campsite was good so booked for three nights! That evening the storm arrived and it rumbled and flashed through the night.

Day twenty-four and we had a wonderfully lazy day. Despite the fact that the railway line runs past the campsite, the atmosphere in Possoniere is very relaxing and well worth a visit. Trains went by but we didn’t notice them after a while. There is a very good restaurant overlooking the river and typical Loire fishing boats are moored up nearby, walk_056When we arrived, a group of people were helping a young African man to make a replica Malinese fishing boat. They were working under a temporary shelter and the sound of hammering mingled with African music. A group of youngsters camped in our field for the night planning to watch the World Cup semi finals. They had adults with them and they were very well behaved; we were invited to watch as well if we wished. However we had booked to go for a meal by the river that evening. Dave ate Tartare petits patapons (fromage blanc seasoned with black pepper, black olives, sea salt, thin slices of fresh tomatoes, locally smoked fish, chives, sundried tomato and lemon to squeeze over). Dot ate Rillauds et Confit Oignons (slowly casseroled pieces of pork in a spicy sweet gravy and a rich onion chutney). We had a plate of chips between us and washed it all down with a bottle of house red. For desert we had delicious caramelised pear tart with chocolate topping. Dot made a mental note to experiment with the recipe. The whole meal cost 41€ and was worth every penny.

Day twenty-five: the day of the missing underpants!! Over breakfast we discussed our options for the next few days and decided that we would get the train from Possoniere to Saumur and continue along the Loire a far as Candes Saint Martin where the Vienne joins the Loire. We strolled up to the railway station and bought our tickets. When we walk_061got back to the campsite Dave noticed that his washing had disappeared from the line. We thought that the group that had been in our field the night before might have taken the washing in error. Dave walked up to the camp office to report the loss. The manageress was sympathetic and said that she would try and contact one of the adults who had come with the youngsters. We stayed for a beer and noticed that the Malinese boat was about to be launched. A group of local musicians walked up from the lower quay with a tall African dressed in a long yellow robe. Speeches were made and the boat was pulled down into the river and splashed with water amidst lots of shouting and clapping. Dave offered to send some video to a woman whose digital camera wasn’t working. She invited us for drinks later and turned out to be the Maire’s wife! We strolled round later that afternoon and had a pleasant time talking to Celestin and Helene about our walk, the Loire, cycling, and Dave’s missing clothes including our one and only towel. Helene very kindly gave us a small yellow towel. We arrived back at the campsite around 6.30 p.m. and as we turned the corner Dave said “My washing’s back!” There is was, back on the line; all of it that was except for his pair of underpants (they were new, we had only bought them a few days before).Turns out that the washing was taken in error and had been hung back on the line as we were not by our tent. The group leader offered to pay for the underpants but we declined.

Day twenty-six and we had our first ride on a French train. It arrived on time and we arrived in Angers where we made our way to another platform where we caught the train for Saumer. We walked along the main road out of the town having missed the signs for the cycleway. It wasn’t too busy and there was a good wide grass verge. We took walk_062a small lane off to the left and found ourselves walking past houses built into the cliffs. Some were very picturesque and others were derelict. We stopped at Turquant where we found a small supermarket and bought food and beer for lunch at a picnic area nearby. It was a very steep climb out of the village but worth the view. We saw the first of many vineyards close up and also a nuclear power station in the distance! It was a steep descent into Montsureau where we saw a campsite but didn’t like the look of it (too expensive looking) so we walked another two kilometres to Candes Saint Martin. It is very picturesque and the church is very beautiful. The campsite is quite pleasant, right by the river and a good number of trees. However it is not very good if you arrive on foot. There is no camp shop and no shops in Candes Saint Martin. Dave had a conversation with a chap about our predicament and he said that the shop wasn’t far away only three kilometres! A while later we saw him drive off and return a little later with bags of shopping. Now we know that three kilometres isn’t far by car or bike but it’s a long way there and back on foot when you’ve already walked all day. We hope he runs out of petrol one rainy day only three kilometres from a garage! We had three cuppasoups each and finished off the rest of our bread for supper.

Day twenty-seven and we leave the Loire and begin our walk along the Vienne. The dawn was beautiful as we walk_063walked across the bridge and onto a cycle track taking us through woodland a pleasant walk of about nine kilometres. We thought we might camp at Savigny-en-Vienne but decided against it, as there wasn’t a proper shop nearby only a boulangerie that sold the usual bread & cakes plus tinned or packet goods but didn’t sell butter! We asked and apparently the nearest shop wasn’t far away only three kilometres!!! We decided to walk on to Chinon about ten more kilometres. We arrived in Chinon around 11.30 a.m. The old town of Chinon dominated by its castle can be seen from anywhere on the campsite. As we checked in we noticed three warning notices giving instructions in case of emergency; the first stating that the campsite was in a flood zone; the second that the area was an earthquake zone and the third that a nuclear power station was not far away. Despite this we booked in for two days.


©dave&dot
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map week 4
Map week 4